new install, boiler doesn't turn off now

I've just installed the 'Tado V3+ Black Edition Wireless Heating & Hot Water Smart Thermostat Starter Kit', to replace my existing British Gas MODEL UP2 Controller, and ES1 Thermostat, on a British Gas 330+ boiler.

The install went well, and the new receiver and wireless thermostat can successfully talk to each other and changing settings on the app appear to controller the receiver. The issue is that when I turn on the power to the boiler it just fires up and keeps heating hte radiators whether it is timed to do it or not.

I'm open to having made an error... should I have got the wired unit not wireless?

The images from the install are below:


Best Answer

  • DM932187
    DM932187 ✭✭✭
    Answer ✓
    Constant heating?

    I think you may have bridged the SL in fitting the new Tado stat. You’ve done exactly as instructed, and put the 2 L wires in the same connector. Unfortunately, the yellow one appears to be your SL, which should only have power when the old stat calls for heat.

    Putting them in the same connector connects them. I have no idea why Tado would tell people with an existing stat to do this.

    If you can, remove either the yellow or red wire from that connector (you’ll likely need to cut it as the Tado connectors don’t not release again) and put it in a separate connector to isolate it (you’ll need a small electrical connector due to Tado only providing 3).

    I’m guessing that will fix your problem.

Answers

  • Your wiring looks fine if you have a y plan hot water system. Is there a bridge on the boiler that you need to remove/add? I’m assuming that it’s a single zone heating system?
  • Genius. Separating those two fixed my problem. Huge thank you!

  • Glad to hear that's sorted it @justyn .

    I made exactly this error myself yesterday wiring the same system. I foolishly assumed the tado connectors were simply parallel (like the standard electrical ones) rather actual connectors. They're only any use as bridges unless they're used one per wire.

    It's perhaps implicit in tado telling us not to put the N and E in the same one, but you'd think they could make this clearer wouldn't you?

    Oh, and providing four might be helpful too.

  • @DM932187 sad update. I thought it had fixed the issue, but when the main heating timer should have kicked in later on in the day, the boiler didn’t respond. I’ve reconnected so that we have heat this evening. A shame.,
  • Main heating timer?

    Are you running an additional programmer as well as scheduling through tado?

  • Sorry, no other programmer.
  • OK, so the plan is just to run the smart stat and the wireless receiver?

    Is the wireless receiver is the zone controller for the smart stat? (Settings/Rooms/[Your room name - where stat is]/scroll down to zone controller)

  • Yes, just the smart stat and the wireless receiver. I don't know if the images below help with rooms etc..



  • That looks correct in terms of zone control, but you shouldn't have that red dot on the settings tab, which indicates something is wrong (which of course, it is).

    If you click on any of the devices, do you see any errors?

  • Ah, you can ignore that red dot. I took the first screen grab before the unit was turn back on (so the house could get heat). I can confirm that it doesn't show in my phone now.


  • Right. Nothing obviously wrong there.

    So when you removed the bridge in the old stat wiring it seemed to work, but then when the scheduled time for the heating to kick in arrived, nothing happened, despite it being below set temp, right?

    What's happening with the HW, are you also controlling this via tado, or do you have a combi, and is it working?

  • I wonder if it is worth backing up to explain my system to ensure the full details are laid out. We have a hot water cylinder and heating that is fed by the boiler. It is a gravity fed system as the feed tanks are in the attic. From what I know we are a Y system as shown by the image below.

    The receiver was altered to reflect Gravity fed, as per the "Instructions for Professionals". It is now on the Blue colour config:

    To answer your helpful questions:

    • So when you removed the bridge in the old stat wiring it seemed to work, but then when the scheduled time for the heating to kick in arrived, nothing happened, despite it being below set temp, right?

    That is correct. The boiler doesn't start up.

    • What's happening with the HW, are you also controlling this via tado, or do you have a combi, and is it working?

    This is controlled via Tado. The HW side of things works fine when the bridge was removed. The timer and boiler started and stopped as I would have expected it to.

    When the heating timer starts in Tado (with the bridge removed), what I've found is that the hot water timer lights up on the receiver. I wasn't expecting that, but the boiler doesn't start up anyway in that scenario.

    I feel totally confused at this point. Could I be missing a vital piece of wiring from the original setup?

  • "Putting them in the same connector connects them. I have no idea why Tado would tell people with an existing stat to do this. "

    The idea seems to be you turn the spot in the circuit where the old thermostat was into a bridge/closed switch, then splice in the tado receiver in series near the boiler. In some cases this might make more sense than just disconnecting the old thermostat, but If you end up wiring things in parallel, it will just fire the boiler all the time..
  • @luteijn Thanks. Tado support are now responding and looking into it for me. We have to wit and see or return the unit!

  • Hey Justyn,

    I have a near identical system to yours but haven't purchased any Tado products yet. Please could you update this thread when resolved as it's very likely I will run into the same issues.

    Thanks in advance,

  • It turned out my issue was a fault in the unit. TADO replaced and it works perfectly fine. I am very happy with it!

  • Montage
    Montage ✭✭✭

    It would be worth mentioning it isn't really a 'gravity fed' system. It's fully pumped by the looks of the valve and the auto bypass in the background. It's just vented, rather than sealed (not that this matters to Tado).