V3 Wireless Receiver Installation
Comments
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It sounds like the Tado wiring is now correct, albeit a few minutes delay between CH off and boiler reacting is perhaps a little surprising.
For you to have a hot rad when the stat is off can only mean your boiler is receiving a call to heat from somewhere else. Presumably, if you open up the other TRVs that’s throughout the house, not just the lounge.
It’s very unlikely to be the receiver relay, as you’ve said that’s switching on/off as expected. Therefore, it’s something else.
Presumably, the HW is also off when you’re getting this heat? If it is, then we can eliminate the possibility of the wiring for HW and CH being connected the wrong way around.
If there are no other controllers in the system that could be calling for heat, and given the Tado receiver appears to be behaving as expected, and you’ve also not amended wiring anywhere else, then I'm struggling to think where else that power to the boiler can be coming from. I doubt it's a stuck CH valve, as that would give a constant call whereas you say the boiler is responding to the call for CH from Tado. It could be a fault with the boiler, but it seems highly coincidental that it's arisen now, and if everything was working fine before you switched to Tado, it can't really be anything else in the system.
So unfortunately, right now, I'm out of ideas on this one I'm afraid. If I do think of anything else, I'll come back to you, but it looks to me you may need to get a pro to look at this.
As for the Tado TRVs, I certainly wouldn't install them until this is sorted. If you're planning on installing in the living room, bear in mind that TRV valve may need to be replaced, as opposed to just the head, as from what you say, it sounds like that valve isn't working. That'll require you to drain the system to take the current valve off (or a pro could likely do it by just draining the rad and freezing the pipework).
Good luck - hope you get it sorted very soon.0 -
Thanks DM
I installed a tado TRV in the office where I am out of curisority and noticed that when I took the old TRV off it seemed different to the living room. So I took the TRV off in the living room and the bit in the middle that moves up & down when you turn the valve, isn't there, it's disintegrated!
So for now I have popped the TRV from the office onto it to see if it does cool it down.
The Tado TRV in the Office seem to work as expected
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Well, that probably explains that then.
Just noticed the last comment on another recent post ‘Boiler won’t turn off’. Seems impossibly far fetched, but you never know…0 -
Just tried this experiment
Everything turned OFF to allow living room radiator to cool
Every TRV taken off, checked and every rad bled
Every rad on frost setting
Living room radiator cold, so held on down and got friend to turn on boiler
Boiler fired up and went off after a few minutes
5 minutes of holding pin in and living room radiator still cold
Put manual TRV from the office onto living room rad, turned right down to frost and still cold after another 5 minute. Flow pipe in still cold too
At no time did CH light come on, room stat still on 18, target 17
Turn office stat to 25
Phone app confirms office target is 25
CH light is on
Boiler fired up but went off (amber light again) , comes on again after a bit (blue light) so assuming this is typical boiler behaviour
Office radiator very hot, rad stat stating 21.5 and still rising
Living room still cold and so too flow pipe
All other rads still cold as on frost setting
Now 20 minutes on from the start
Turned down office stat from 25 to 20, boiler off and CH light off
So from this, I conclude that the radiator stat and the receiver are working as expected
I am now going to turn up a manual TRV and see what happens...0 -
Turned on manual TRV to full in the spare bedroom
Within a few minutes the radiator gets warm, no CH light on as the room stat downstairs isn't calling for heat
Don't think boiler is on as light still amber and pump is operating. Is this just pumping water around the house?
Living room and all other radiators cold
Turned down bedroom stat back to frost setting
Office radiator saying 22.8 now
Bedroom radiator still hot
10 minutes into this part
Boiler still off (Amber light) and I can hear pump going round
Turned bedroom radiator down to off
5 minutes after turning radiator off radiator getting cooler0 -
All sounds promising.
What happens if you turn all stats down?
You may be experiencing pump overrun (to dissipate heat) which is likely normal (varies boiler to boiler).
Switching on/off whilst below room temp is Tado’s TPI algorithm so also likely normal.0 -
OK so I have installed the 4x tado STRV's, (so easy) to Lounge, Office, Main Bedroom and Bedroom 2 radiators.
They are all set to 17 and none of them are calling for heat at present 😁 and the schedlue is also set at 17 fopr each time block.
All other radiators in the house have their TRV's set to No.1 and are all cold. These are bottom hallway, landing and all three toilet/bathrooms (1 on each floor, it's a town house)
Room stat in the hall is still on 18 and target is 17 so that's not calling for heat either.
So I'm thinking this is just how it is?
And if I do want to put some heat into the rooms with the manual TRV's I have to increase the target of the room (hall) stat to 20 for example, and then boiler will kick in and the radiators with the manual TRV's will get some heat?
I also mistakenly said all my radiators except one had TRV's... that is incorrect. I don't have any radiator that is left 'open' or able to be controlled.
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@MrPacE frustrating to read that you had additional problems, but it seems like the wireless receiver is switching on and off correctly now. If you are still getting extra heat in the radiators when you think the boiler should be off, then check the zone valves. When the boiler switches off and pump overrun is circulating water to cool down the boiler, the circulation should not go through the CH or HW circuits. Pump overrun only circulates in the primary circuit when the receiver has closed both zone valves. If the CH valve is sticking partly open, then pump overrun will continue to push hot water into the CH circuit.
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My hero too! Couldn't for the life of me work out what was wrong. Like you, I thought those wire clip things (tech term) were just to cap the wires, so I had 2 in a double. After reading this, I dug down in the bin and found the third clip/junction and so now all 3 wires are separate and all seems to be working fine.
Thanks again!
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Wago connectors are very common now, far more secure and safe than the old "choc. blocks" we used to use . . .
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