Advice on moving to Tado with our system

jnix

I’d love some advice on moving to Tado. Here’s our setup:

4 bedroom, 2 storey house.

Boiler: Potterton Surprima 80 HE (downstairs in utility room)

Controller: Drayton LP522 Lifestyle (upstairs in airing cupboard - with an extra box of wires which usually has a cover, see photo, and the pump)

Hot water cylinder  (upstairs in airing cupboard)

Wired thermostat (downstairs in hallway)

2 towel rails

9 radiators (all have TRVs)

It feels quite a normal setup to me - my worry is over the complicated box of wires under the controller. A plumber has said in the past that the pump was never connected properly back to the boiler - which I think is why we ended up with an additional overrun box in the airing cupboard (black box in the pic)

.

I'm a competent DIYer but a bit scared about the electrics side. So a)would a Tado work here? and b)could i fit it myself?

policywonk

Your boiler is designed to be switched on and off, using simple analogue on-off controls.

Question 1: Come back with the precise model number of that wired stat downstairs. It needs to be replaced with a smart Tado wired thermostat, and we need to know what it is to move the wires from one to the other. Come back with that information here.

Question 2: Please to look at is this page on the internet: Central Heating Controls and Zoning - DIYWiki. You clearly have one zone valve in that cupboard. It looks like a two port valve, not a three port valve. It would help if you could study that internet page and determine whether you have an S Plan, or a C Plan. It is unlikely to be a W Plan or Y Plan. Please identify what it is.

Question 3: Your wiring centre. It is scary with the lid off. If the lid is missing, it is best to replace it with an updated, modern wiring centre. Screwfix sell these and the guide is in the above webpage.

When Migrating you need to inform Tado sales that you have:

• the specific model of Potterton boiler,
• the specific model of thermostat,
• the central heating plan.

They will come back with a plan on what Tado bits you need. This will involve at least swapping: the Drayton programmer for a Tado extension kit (aka a Tado wireless receiver), the thermostat for a Tado smart wired thermostat; then to install the internet bridge, following the guide from Tado.

You will need the wiring for that programmer, this webpage: LP522 | Drayton Controls has the guide. Download the installation guide. According to that, these are the wiring positions, if you are replacing it with a Tado wireless receiver, aka the extension kit - the wires map in the following way:

1. N (Neutral) goes from the Drayton to the Tado N screw.
2. L (Permanent Live) goes from the Drayton to the Tado Live screw.
3. Run a bridging wire from L (Permanent Live on the Tado), to CH COM on the Tado, and to HW COM on the Tado.
4. Take the wire from PIN 3 on the Drayton and move it to HW NO on the Tado
5. Take the wire from PIN 4 on the Drayton and move it to CH NO on the Tado.

You must, dont forget, come back with your thermostat model.

If you are scared about moving wiring, get an electrician in. It will demand no more than 1/2 day of their time, including replacing the wiring centre with a decent new one that doesnt look thst scary.

Plumbers tend to be more expensive. However this can be done safely as the isolation switches are within reach. If you've never used an electrician's testing screwdriver, best to find someone who isnt scared with this.

Come back. Happy to help.

jnix

This is fantastic, thanks for taking the time.

Question1: Thermostat is a Honeywell T40. Below are 2 pics of the wiring.

Question2:

Sorry, that whole wiki page confused me and I'm afraid I can't work out what type of heating plan I have. Below are more pics of what I think are the valve(s) etc:

Question 3:

The wiring box does have a cover

policywonk

One response at a time.

1. The Honeywell thermostat - the picture was crucial. It is actually a T6360B and here is its installation guide: T6360-T4360-Installation-Guide.pdf. According to that, your PIN wiring should be - during the conversion to Tado:
   1. PIN 1 is PERMANANT LIVE - goes to COM on the Tado wired thermostat
   2. PIN 2 is NEUTRAL - goes to P1 on the Tado
   3. PIN 3 is SWITCHED LIVE - goes to NO on the Tado
   4. PIN 4 ignore
   5. earth (earth symbol) goes to P2 on the Tado.
2. The two honeywell motorised valves.
   1. The one you photographed with the model V4043h1056- thats a two port valve.
   2. The other valve looks identical, but please check the same label from that valve. Is it the same model, as the other, or one having only two pipes, not three pipes meeting it directly?
   3. If both are the same, ie two port motorised valves you seem to have an S PLAN. This is important.
   4. One final issue. Please check downstairs and confirm that there is or isnt another two port valve like these downstairs - if there is, take a shot and post it here. It is important because the right hand pipe going down from the pump, tees off and just by the zone valve on the right - it may be going to another valve downstairs. If there is, come back quickly.
3. Good that the wiring centre has a lid. You shouldnt have to do anything in there.

Assuming you come back with no surprises, please tell Tado that you have :

• An S Plan system with two zone valves, one for HW, one for CH (check downstairs - there may be a second for CH)
• Potterton Surprima 80 HE boiler
• A Drayton LP522 Lifestyle programmer
• A Honeywell T6360 thermostat.

Ask them to describe the kit you need. You have the list of wiring changes you need:

• For the programmer to replace it with a Tado Wireless Reciever from the extension kit
• For the thermostst to replace it with a Tado Wired Thermostat.
• Add the internet bridge, place it close to your router.
• Download the app, and follow the instructions to add each component.

Dont forget to turn of the power to the boiler and the stuff. The isolating switch is near those valves. Once the power is off, use a mains electrical testing screwdriver to make sure it is all dead at the programmer and start the process.

Come back. Let us know how you got on.