Worcester Greenstar cdi 37 installation
Thanks in advance of any assistance.
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@jason1162 . Hi.
Two threads of information for you:
- The boiler's installation guide is here.
- Greenstar CDi Classic Combi ErP Installation and Servicing Instructions | Worcester Bosch. Choose the year relevant to your boiler (if in doubt use the latest version) and download it. Pages 29-30 are critical.
- Page 29 sets out how to open up the front lower panel and find the connectors you need. On Fig 42 it presents two things of importance: the location of connector ST19, and the location of something called the CODE PLUG. ST19 provides remote control access to the EMS-BUS (what Tado call the HT-BUS). The CODE PLUG is, I believe, where the DT10RF plugs in!
- Page 30, expands on the motherboard and identifies ST19, the CODE PLUG, and a set of sensors or connector points (not clear from the drawing) but are called 'WORCESTER 24V CONTROLS OPTION, PLUG IN POINT (under blanking cover on fascia)'
- Together these confirm that the EMS BUS can be accessed in two ways (i) via the DT10RF and (ii) via ST19.
- The installation guide for the DT10RF can be downloaded here. Worcester DT10RF Mk 2 Programmer Installation and Servicing Instructions | Worcester Bosch. Page 22 identifies the ribbon and where you can find it. Now what it doesnt do is confirm where on the motherboard it plugs in. Would you please check whether it is actually the CODE PLUG, or something else?
- What neither guide states is how the DT10RF being plugged in, and the ST19 being engaged, recognised by the boiler. Its firmware has to be made aware of which port to listen to, given that there are two!
2. There are other users who have got past this obstacle.
- Others have faced this obstacle and at least two individuals in this community managed to solve it without a drama in the last year.
- A few claim on Reddit that they got it to work just by (i) fitting the Tado wiring to ST19, (ii) telling the DT10RF to switch into 24/7 non stop mode. Some then mentioned that there is some menu facility which informs the boiler to determine which if the two inputs to use, ie the DT10RF or the remote (now your intended Tado) head.
- One of the Tado community users removed the ribbon - and it seems that can be done safely- but leaving the controller in place (it will die but not look idiotic) and it worked immediately on wiring ST19.
- Have contacted two community members with recent success at this and asked them to join this thread. Hopefully you'll have some actual support and I will continue researching over the weekend.
- @mlennox wow that was fast!
By the way, dont forget, please take those photos of your motherboard and post them here. Use a laptop browser, mobiles dont seem to work with this forum in posting photos.
Do you have the time to investigate this? Given the winter workload the Support team may not respond as quickly as one needs. It is cold at the moment!
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Yes, I just unplugged the ribbon cable at the boiler end and tucked the cable back into the receiver and then replaced it because I don't have a blanking plate. If ever the need arises I can just disconnect the Tado receiver and go back to using the Bosch one.
When I wired my boiler I just followed the instructions on the Tado app at settings/Rooms & Devices/Wireless Receiver. Originally, there was a link between the LR and LS terminals which I removed. The Grey/Brown/Blue/Black wire was wired as follows:- Grey-LR, Brown-LS, Blue-NS and black was left disconnected (see photographs). At the Tado Receiver Blue-Supply N, Brown - Supply L, Grey-CH NO and black is left disconnected. A purple link wire is connected between Supply L and CH COM. Apart from unplugging the original receiver that's all I had to do. Once I'd paired the Wireless receiver and Internet Bridge to the Tado App everything worked as expected for me.
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If you intend to disable the existing receiver and that means removing the ribbon cable from the PCB, you need a written instruction from Tado to that effect. The tech team must make up their mind on this.
I wouldnt take the risk until I had an instruction in writing. Furthermore I wouldnt interfere with a motherboard's wiring unless I am sure I have worked out how the ribbon is removed and also how it is put back. Is there a chance that your boiler could be due for an onsite service soon? If so, they'd probably not object to removing the ribbon for you. However the kids in Support need to make a decision.
@Emcee would you please look at this?
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Thank you policywonk I tend to agree and had emailed them as such given my frustration. The installation instructions are clearly incomplete and inadequate in my case given there was no mention of removing the existing boiler receiver until I contacted them for support. They have kindly supplied some diagrams (which look like they are from a Worcester boiler document) on how to install such a receiver, so disconnecting it would appear to be a straightforward reverse of this process. It is their ambiguity regarding “remove the receiver” but “don’t disconnect the ribbon cable” which is worrying and gives me zero confidence in them thus far.0
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I'll try and make time tomorrow to read the boler's install guide and think it through. My problem is that Worcester tends to be shirty when it comes to talking to ends users. Will try and find time. Back soon hopefully.1
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May I ask.. what's the model of the existing controller that's in place? Also need to understand where it's ribbon goes in the motherboard. Is there a plug Id? It usually starts with the letters 'ST'.
Am assuming that Tado has recommended you wire into plug ST19.
Take a photo and post it here via a laptop browser.
Let me know.0 -
Thank you so much. The receiver model number is DT10RF. Regarding the ribbon cable tado have not suggested wiring anything in to plug ST 19 or anything else for that matter. I have not seen anything labelled that neither did I see a ribbon cable so it might be housed within a part that I didn’t need to access when I was connecting the tado receiver. I have a photo of something that might help but I don’t have a laptop?0
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Hello @jason1162
I had a look at your chat. Reina should get back to you today.0 -
Hi Emcee
At this time I am no further forward and if you’ve seen the email between Reina and myself you will perhaps understand the mixed messages regarding the removal of the ribbon cable and the lack of detailed instruction on how to do this.
I bought this device on the back of the advertising stating “simply install” “ you don’t have to be a professional” “in a few minutes this step by step guide” etc etc.
None of this is true. The guide is incomplete and rather than a few minutes, I’m in to the second week of it still not working correctly.
Against my better judgement I’m still willing to try and get this working if tado can fulfil their advertising claims and provide me with a simple, step by step guide on how to do so. The current guide only details connecting the new devices and not disconnecting the old parts as a necessity to get things working. Surely I can’t be the only person to ever try this on my particular model of boiler?0 -
I have a Greenstar boiler and after I wired in the Tado controller I unplugged the existing Worcester remote controller.
MAKE SURE YOU SWITCH OFF THE BOILER BEFORE OPENING IT, TTHERE ARE LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE.
I unplugged the connector, tucked the plug and cable it in behind the controller carefully and put the controlleer back in place so there would be no access to the boiler internals. I relied heavily on a manual of the controller showing how to install it, which is of great help gaining access. You can find those on the worcester website.
You could take a pic of the orientation of the controller connector and if there were any problems just plug it back in.
Once I removed it I just turned power on to the boiler again and tested the tado controller manually an d through the app.
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@jason1162 if I can help let me know - I don't have exactly the same boiler but close enough
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I also have a Greenstar CDi Classic boiler which I have replaced the DT10RF remote controller with the Tado receiver. It works fine. I followed the instructions on the Tado App. Like mlennoz, I unplugged the connector, tucked the plug and cable it in behind the controller carefully and put the controller back in place so there would be no access to the boiler internals. My DF10RF still has its batteries in and I still use it to indicate the temperature of the room where it is. Because the Receiver in the boiler is disconnected the DF10RF has no control function. I have attached some photos of how I disconnected the DF10RF.
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Wow thanks so much for these detailed replies guys.
Policywonk the links you have provided are equally helpful and daunting! All this talk of motherboard ports and ST19 particularly are reinforcing my suspicion that this is not the simple step by step, DIY process that has been advertised. I’ve not seen anything with an ST 19 label and the tado wiring has all gone elsewhere (namely the grey wire into the LR port, black unused and brown/Live and blue/Neutral accordingly)
Your final point regarding the boiler firmware having two options of which port to refer to are way beyond what I was expecting to overcome 😳
Miennox and Arthur: your experiences sound like something I might be able to replicate.
Miennox was your thermostat/programmer wired or wireless? Since I don’t have a blanking plate, unplugging the ribbon cable and carefully replacing the DT10RF was what I was hoping would do the trick. Which end of the cable did you disconnect? The end into the DT10RF or the end that goes from there and into the boiler (motherboard?) itself?
Albert your pictures and experience are most helpful too (is there a way to post pictures without a laptop)? Im 99.9% certain you’ve pulled the ribbon cable out from the boiler itself, tucked the cable back into the receiver and then replaced the same as you also don’t have a blanking plate? If you needed to replace the ribbon cable back into the boiler could you do it easily?0 -
Thanks Arthur that’s what I was hoping to hear. I also removed the the link from LS and Lr before inserting the grey wire into LR.
I may have made a mistake with my brown and blue wires, as I piggy backed them into the L and N ports. It didn’t occur to me to put them into the empty Ls and Ns ports…
Despite that the tado receiver is powered and talking to the boiler, the boiler just isn’t listening as per this whole thread. Thanks again for the reassuring advice either way images. It seems pretty straightforward so why tado hasn’t got its act together in officially providing this last bit of the puzzle as part of its installation guide is perplexing. I think I’ll wait until after the weekend before giving it a go in case I’m in need of a professional at short notice having disabled an otherwise perfectly adequate heating system….
I’ll let you know how I get on 👍🏻0 -
Jason - can I just check that when you say "the tado receiver doesn’t effectively communicate with my boiler ie when it’s calling for heat the boiler doesn’t respond" is the heat request LED going on and off on the Tado receiver? Basically, when the LED lights the Tado receiver just links the the LS (Live Supply) and LR (Live Return) contacts on the boiler. If the heat request LED on the Tado receiver is not going on and off the problem is not with the boiler wiring. Just checking I'm not missing something.0
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The heat request led is constantly on (when the thermostat temperature setting is high enough). It doesn’t flash on and off ( if that’s what you mean by going on and off). Strangely both the tado app and the tado wall thermostat appear to be connecting with the tado receiver correctly eg I can make the third light go on and off by adjusting the temperature accordingly on the device or via the app. What this doesn’t do is actually make the boiler fire (unless the Worcester thermostat also requires heat). Interestingly both thermostats have to be set sufficiently high for the boiler to work. If the tado reciever led is off then the boiler won’t fire even when requested by the Worcester thermostat. Sadly I can’t set the Worcester thermostat to be constantly on eg 30 degrees and control via the tado thermostat either.0
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@Emcee would appreciate you pressing Reina again to discuss this with @jason1162. This is out of my range in debugging.
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Ok so today I finally disconnected the ribbon cable and everything now works! It was surprisingly easy to access and simple to do ONCE you guys here gave me the benefit of your experience. I definitely couldn’t have done it without your help especially Arthur and his images but a big thank you to all of you for giving me the confidence to literally pull the plug 😆
Such a shame that tado support haven’t yet got this last piece of the puzzle described appropriately in the otherwise very comprehensive installation instructions.
Thanks again everyone. I’m sure I will be back here again when I delve deeper into this tado experience 👍🏻👍🏻0 -
@arthur2shedsjackson, @mlennox thank you both. Keep safe
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