Installing Wireless thermostat kit v3+ on a Vaillant EcoTec Pro24 Boiler with SALUS Controller

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Dale_M90
Dale_M90 ✭
edited June 2022 in General Questions & Topics

Disclaimer: I am not an engineer, nor am I particularly skilled in anything plumbing or electrical. Essentially I'm layman with everything to do with boilers. I do however have a basic understanding of electronics, and I do like taking things part and solving an interesting problem


Recently, I bought the Tado Wireless Kit V3+ to install on a Vaillant EcoTec Pro24 Combi-Boiler with a SALUS RT510TX Wireless Thermostat & Controller. However, either there were no clear instructions for me to follow on the above setup, or I couldn't find them. The Tado installation manual was useful, but did not match the configuration of the boiler PCB, and all the resources around the boiler (manuals etc) either did not match my PCB exactly, or had conflicting diagrams.


I tried following the instructions as best I could, but could never control/turn on the heating from the app or thermostat.


my original set up and original wiring was as below:

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Fig 1: Boiler panel and reverse of previous Wireless Thermostat

IMG_0548.jpeg

Fig 2: PCB with original wiring set up.

With Tado installed: my new wiring set up is as below:

IMG_0555.jpeg

Fig 3: New Wiring Set up with Tado successfully installed.

With the new wiring, I had to deviate slightly from what the basic instructions led with. Live and Neutral are still wired into the 230V Connector (Red Arrow, top right of Fig 3). However I had to remove a small, red bridging cable from the 24v RT connector (Purple Arrow, top left of fig 3) and instead, replace with the Black and Grey Switching cables

IMG_0556.jpeg

Fig 4: Wiring connections on the Tado Wireless

I then wired my Wireless receiver as Fig 4. Specifically:

  • Brown Wire: Live from Receiver -Live (230v) from PCB
  • Blue Wire: Neutral from Receiver - Neutral (230v) from PCB
  • Black Wire: CH COM - RT (leftmost connection under purple arrow in Fig 3) from PCB
  • Grey Wire: CH NO - 24v (rightmost connection under purple arrow in fig 3) from PCB


After many failed attempts at other configurations prior to this, the above connection finally allowed me to control my central heating. I should mention that the SALUS controller on the boiler had to be switched into the 'constantly on' position (black circle, up position) in order for it to work effectively.

I've probably done something wrong, or broken some kind of boiler laws - but for now, it all works. I'm posting this just in case anyone else had a similarly difficult time like I did. feel free to reach out or tell me how wrong I am in response to this post.

Comments

  • jamespblack
    jamespblack ✭
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    Thank you so much for posting this! I'm considering the same install on an identical boiler, and this write up has given me confidence to tackle it. The only difference on my setup is my Valiant controller has been removed as it was clashing with Nest that's currently installed. I just have a hole where the boilers controller once was.

    I still have the Valiant controller, so I could pop that back in and set it to constantly on, should I need to.

  • alexcartergaunt
    alexcartergaunt ✭
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    James, I followed these steps having tried to follow Tados instructions which were clearly not right. This worked perfectly and my stytem has been running for few weeks now without a problem so assume it is all ok. Good luck.

  • jamespblack
    jamespblack ✭
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    Thanks for confirming Alex 🙂

  • Sulita81
    Sulita81 ✭
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    I have been looking for a while to find a simple solution and this post saved me a lot of time; took me 25 min to do the wiring and a bit longer to figure out the app and in the end all works great.

    Thank you so much for sharing!
  • MarkyS
    MarkyS ✭
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    Thanks for sharing Dale & the other contributors, This worked like a charm and made the install so so easy :)

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