Help bridging a wired thermostat
Best Answer
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I had to bridge the wires from the old thermostat. This allowed the wireless receiver to control the boiler and the room radiator thermostat to call for heat.0
Answers
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Sorted now all seams to be working0
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@carlgw74. Am a bit confused here too. When you installed your rad stats, did you register them all in the app, each defining their rooms? Did the wired stat overlap with one room- which is what I suspect happened? It's it fair to presume that the wired stat does not control a heating valve as well?
If so, please consider this, that is to entirely decommission the wired stat from the control unit and from the app. That should remove the contradiction.
Alternatively if the wired stat was hard wired into a heating control valve, usually a three way valve, then the three way valve should have it's 'call for heat' trigger drawn from the tado controller directly and the wired stat decommissioned. Hope that makes sense.0 -
Hi - I am trying to grapple with this too and finding the customer service answers somewhat impenetrable as they keep pushing me back to generic web pages or to 'installation instructions' in the app, which are hard to access for an already installed tado system.
My situation is:
smart rad thermostats in every room currently set to have the wired smart thermostate in their respective zones as the zone controller. However, I have the extension kit for also controlling the boiler and hot water (replacing the previous convential heating programmer), which is what the wired thermostats would otherwise communicate with, but because they cannot be a zone controller for the rads and then have the extension kit as their zone controller they never call for heat, tell the motorised value to open or activate the boiler.
I am told I need to bridge the smart wired thermostats but cannot locate the instructions. Assuming I do, am I correct in thinking this would mean that the motorised value basically stays open all the time, but that if no radiator is calling for heat the boiler would be off. However if a single rad calls for heat it would be pumped around all zones somewhat needlessly (but I guess I could live with it)? Or have I got this all wrong!
Thanks
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I had to bridge the wired thermostat by joining the two wires together. In my setup, each radiator thermostat is assigned to its own room, and all have the extension kit set as the zone controller. When a single radiator calls for heat, the boiler now fires up and warms that radiator up; the others stay closed. My old wired tado thermostat now acts like a wireless temperature sensor and controls the heating in my hallway. That radiator doesn’t have a thermostat on and will warm up whenever any of the others calls for heat, but that’s not a problem.0
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On my wired thermostat i had to join the no and com wires but that was just mine I used a wago 221 connector to do this I'm not sure about anyone else0
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I assume the goal is to basically make the wired thermostat effectively "always on"?
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Yeah I think so but because the extension kit/ wireless receiver now controls the boiler it only calls for heat when the radiator thermostat call for it1
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@Snacker
Hi. That contradiction you have where when all the rads stop calling for heat, the pump keeps going until the boiler decides its had enough, it's pretty much what most on-off boiler controls face.
The extension kit is capable of turning off the valve when there is no call for heat, but you'd have to wire the valve that way.
It helps to consider installing a smart pump, one that automatically changes its pressure based upon how many rads are open. This also reduces waste.1 -
@Carlgw74
Thank you for the explanation.0
