Two wireless receivers operating a single NO valve
I’ve hit the dreaded “10 rooms” limit. My plumbing has only one heating circuit, controlled by a valve that is “normally open” and I have a Wireless Receiver acting as zone controller. It is connected to the boiler control via the “CH NO” terminal.
To get around the limit, can I buy a second Wireless Receiver, and wire it in parallel, so that both are capable of sending a signal to the same wire via the “NO” terminal?
Would I need this to be a second “Home” in Tado and thus also need a second dongle?
Failing that, one of the rooms has a Wired Thermostat that controls a wet underfloor heating manifold. Can I wire this directly to the boiler control in parallel with the Wireless Receiver so it I can fire the boiler on its own?
To get around the limit, can I buy a second Wireless Receiver, and wire it in parallel, so that both are capable of sending a signal to the same wire via the “NO” terminal?
Would I need this to be a second “Home” in Tado and thus also need a second dongle?
Failing that, one of the rooms has a Wired Thermostat that controls a wet underfloor heating manifold. Can I wire this directly to the boiler control in parallel with the Wireless Receiver so it I can fire the boiler on its own?
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Comments
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Hi. Have been going around in circles on this subject for years now and shortly I'll have to address a similar area to yours. It falls under the same questions as
- Is it possible to have two internet bridges and two boilers running in the same home? I have a formal - yet off the record- response from Tado tech which says it can be done but is not advised -and when I ask why, I met silence. It does involve:
- having more than one account,
- if you have a samsung android - using the shadow mode on that system to run another Tado app with the second account,
- two internet bridges and potentially having tech support alter the frequencies of the internet bridges so that they operate as two logical "homes".
- Is it possible to have two internet bridges working together to operate the same home, to get around the problem with old buildings and thick walls? Some have somehow made it work, but I have not yet seen a clear explanation of how to make this work.
In the next month, am going to have to try out and make work, with V3+, an attempt to address the first question - which may help solve your question.
When 2 wireless receivers are working in relay mode (connected two two logical accounts) but physically and electrically joined, your idea should work, but there is a risk: both wireless receivers could be electrically at risk - and only Tado can tell us from their knowledge of the circuits if there is a genuine electrical risk or a warranty cancelling legal risk.
However for now:
- @davidlyall, you open to chipping into this thread?
- @wateroakley I know you've had to work around this too.
This link may be useful. Limitations for larger properties — tado° Community
These two guys know much more than me about how to make this branch of logical but officially unsupported scenarios work.
0 - Is it possible to have two internet bridges and two boilers running in the same home? I have a formal - yet off the record- response from Tado tech which says it can be done but is not advised -and when I ask why, I met silence. It does involve:
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Thank you - very helpful and I’d love to hear how you get on. I had Tado in my previous house and loved it. It never occurred to me to check if there was a hard limit like this. I know 10 rooms is a lot but it’s not exactly unheard of. If I’d known I probably would have thought twice before committing hundreds of pounds on Tado products. :-/0
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@Emcee. Would you be open to contacting the backroom techs to confirm the following
1. Is there an actual electric risk in wiring two wireless receivers in parallel to meet @optilude 's purpose?
2. Is there a legal warranty risk in wiring two wireless receivers in parallel, for the same reason?0 -
@policywonk @Emcee the actual use case might be to wire both a wireless receiver and one or more wired smart thermostats to the brown wire going into the zone valve.
As I now understand it, that wire opens the valve and fires the boiler and main circulator pump.
I need the second wired smart thermostat to be able to do the same thing on the same valve. Easiest way to do it would be at the CH NO terminal on the wireless receiver but I could also tie the three wires together in a junction box (CH NO on the wireless receiver, CH NO on the wired thermostat, and the brown wire to the zone valve).0 -
My thoughts
- is it really necessary to have 10 rooms able to call for heat? Could some of those be set as independent so only get heat when other rooms are calling? an example might be an ensuite or another room that isn't used often. I'm not at the 10 room limit but I've still reduced the rooms able to call for heat to four (living room plus three bedrooms). The rest of our rooms are independent and stay warm by only getting heat when any of the four are calling
- I would say the the UFH is a good candidate for being able to call for heat directly so it essentially becomes a second zone controller for the house and removes one room from being under the wireless receivers control. You'd be best discussing with a sparky if you're not 100% on the wiring required.
- Is it possible to add a second motorised valve to split the system physically e.g. upstairs/downstairs? This would also need another wired smart thermostat which would then become the zone controller. As far as I'm aware, the 10 room limit is per zone controller so you could have the wireless receiver as the ZC for downstairs and a wired smart thermostat as the ZC for upstairs. Each would then be controlling a smaller number of rooms
Obviously this is quite an expensive option as it would need plumbing changes
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