w.Intercom = i;A little help with choosing the right kit — tado° Community

A little help with choosing the right kit

Hi all, apologies have had a little look but unsure with what route to take. Our new home has a ProCombi exclusive 35 boiler with an old TFC wireless stat. Am looking to replace with Tado. What it be compatible and advantageous to install the Opentherm version if even compatible or should I go non opentherm. Then to add to confusion should I hold out for the new X version said to be out this month? Thanks in advance for all help

Comments

  • wateroakley
    wateroakley Volunteer Moderator

    @N31LcD Welcome. I'd recommend the first port of call for checking compatibility should be to the Tado support guys from the chat on the main Tado web site.

    A few pointers:

    Installation of the V3+ product is straighforward for a competent DIYer. Tado will provide wiring instructions when you start the install.

    The ProCombi manual says it needs an external 'bypass' if your fit TRVs on all your radiators. There may be an automatic bypass on the plumbing. Otherwise one rad will need to be left without a TRV as the external bypass.

    I couldn't see Opentherm mentioned in the manual, nor in the wiring diagram? Therefore, relay (with either the wired or wireless starter kit) is probably the route to to go.

    A word of caution if you have a very large home or thick walls. Some users have range issues with the low-power wifi connection between the V3+ Internet dongle and remote devices.

    The new 'X' version has not yet launched in the UK and I don't know of a date. There is a lot of experience and help from users on this forum with the V3+ version.

    Hope this helps.

  • Thanks for the reply. Will indeed chat to the main site techs. When you mention a bypass for trv fitment. Is that specific to tado? I ask as all rads currently have old school manual trv valves fitted with the exception of the upstairs bathroom chrome upright. Signal strength if WiFi is anything to go by decent strength in all except bathroom. If boiler doesn’t have opentherm does this mean it cannot be added and to go for the standard v3 thanks
  • policywonk
    policywonk ✭✭✭
    edited November 4
    @N31LcD
    Hi. @wateroakley has significant experience. He was likely recommending that you implement a CH bypass valve because it helps the boiler to shut down quickly when all the rads are at the right temperature. I bought a Tado system to help me reduce energy costs and waste. Implementing a bypass valve, nicely calibrated by a good plumber, also helps lots.

    It would also help, if your boiler has a timer pre-fitted to ask Ideal for instructions to disable that feature, so that the Tado app handles your schedules.
  • Thanks for the help. Will look at bypass valve option. Am going to get a service done as it looks as if boiler had issues. Found a danger do not use sticker peeled off. House buyer report came with boiler certificate and receipt for replacing flu fan and heat exchange matrix.

    I assume the programmable part is on the rf stat and controller that I will be removing?

    After speaking with tech guys, they were pointing towards waiting for uk release of Tado X. I asked which V3 is compatible and they said the non opentherm version. So the weigh up of new vs v3 and associated costs. Found the starter kit v3 in black for £79 so opened for that. Will then look at what deals for trv come through with Black Friday and or sell of after X release. As I am with octopus the current offer is a 4 pack for £160
  • On a side note. Has anyone used the energy efficiency grant that offers a new boiler?
  • Havent used the grant ourselves. Is your house large? I presume not because the model of boiler you chose suggests that it isnt. If it isnt a large house, has not been built with slate, granite and stone; if the tado devices are not more than 50 feet from where the internet bridge is physically located (this is not Tado's view, this is my view), the V3 series should work.

  • I’m going to go with wall structure won’t be a problem. Can clearly hear next doors kids playing video games almost 24/7 along with many a conversation. House front print is not big. Ex council 60’s 3 bed. Distance from boiler to router approx 8 metres and 2 walls.
  • @N31LcD

    Small, crucial details before you take that step:

    1. What exact model of boiler do you have? That determines how the Tado will talk to it and whether it will run it in simple on-off relay mode, or whether it will throttle the boiler's output as heat demand goes up and down (which saves money).
    2. What exact TFC wireless stat model do you have? Suspect that actually has a wireless base unit fitted somewhere near the boiler and the wireless stat specifically mates to it. These are old school radio frequency units.

    It is unlikely that just replacing the TFC product will mean that a Tado wireless stat will link directly to the boiler. Needs to be a wired unit to trigger the boiler. Will explain when you've responded.

  • boiler is a procombi exclusive 35. The RF stat and receiver are

    https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/assets/graphics/static/RFWRT_instructions.pdf

    The receiver is that round unit on the front of the boiler

  • You'll have to trace it's wiring and consider disconnecting it.
  • Just updating on my question following advice from Tado tech. After a number of back and forth messages and pictures. Tado tech explains the best route will be to bridge pin 4 and 5 on the rf receiver to set it to always on and then use the boiler install instructions connecting the Tado receiver to the ‘chocolate bar’ block.

    I’m assuming removing the bridge wire on the stat connections on the block and placing it on the rf receiver as mentioned I can then connect the Tado as per. Seems straight forward. Fingers crossed