Underfloor heating zone valves with heat pump
So first of all, I'm based in The Netherlands, probably worth mentioning since wiring and heating systems might be slightly different.
Anyway, we've recently moved to a new house with a heat pump system and underfloor heating throughout the house. I've checked and the Vaillant heat pump we have is compatible with the Tado Heat Pump Optimizer X.
Our underfloor heating consists of 2 dividers (or how do you call them in English?): 1 downstairs and 1 upstairs. Downstairs has 12 valves, upstairs 9 valves. Most valves are motorized valves connected to a room thermostat. That room thermostat is just an upper limit, so if I set it to 21C and it's 19C in the room, it'll open the valves, as soon as it reaches 21C it closes the valves. But it does not control heating request from the heat pump system, which is only controlled by the Vaillant sensoComfort thermostat in the living room.
As you can imagine, while it's broadly speaking working decent enough, some rooms are a bit colder than we would like.
So my idea is to use a Heat Pump Optimizer X and combine that with a Smart Thermostat X for each room to control the valves. However, I'm wondering:
- Is it a good idea with a heat pump system to introduce such zoning? Can it handle just heating 1 or 2 rooms as opposed to the whole house?
- Can I connect a Tado Smart Thermostat X to the 230V wiring that the current thermostats use? I'll explain the wiring below.
- If I do all this, can the Tado Smart Thermostat in each room actually request heating from the heat pump regardless of the temperature in the living room (where the main heat pump thermostat resides)?
Wiring for the thermostats to the underfloor heating zone valves is as follows:
P = black = switch wire
L = brown = phase wire (live)
N = blue = neutral wire
Basically, it's a simply NO relay system, if heating is required the valves are kept open, if heating is not required, the valves are closed.
I've seen pictures from years ago with the older V2/V3 thermostats that show the live wire going into COM, the switch wire into NO and the neutral wire into P1.
Would this work?
Answers
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I have v3 for few weeks and algorithms for ufh are abysmal, I would made sure it's Tado that you want.0
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@AddVariety
Some notes,
* what you call valves we call actuators.
* what you call dividers, i believe we call zones ( which funnily enough are opened and closed by what we call motorised valves)
At first glance there's nothing which worries me about your high level approach. Could you respond to these questions?
1. How many actual wall thermostats do you want in the first floor, and, seperately, in the second?
2. If you were to fit these to work in simple on-off or relay mode would you be aiming to connect each thermostat to the actuator that opens the underfloor supply to that room? And if so, what voltage do those actuators run on? 24volts? 230v?
3. So would that mean you would have a total of 20 or perhaps 22 wired thermostats?
In that model it would create:
* Two zones.
* One zone would have 9 logical rooms, the other would have 12 logical rooms. * On one floor one of the thermostats would be assigned as the zone controller, directly opening the valve for the floor. The same concept would apply on the other floor.
* They would link and if either demands heat, that would present a request to the heat pump.0 -
@Irek85
Would you mind starting another thread describing your challenges with Tado on a UFH environment? I have UFH in my home run by V3+.
Perhaps we can help? Like you most of us are just end users, nothing to do with Tado.0 -
@policywonk
Well, I assumed it's not my individual issue. But perhaps you are right and I'll start new discussion. Just please let me know (regarding ufh zones) - does early start works for you and does Tado stop heating after reaching desired temp?0
