Radiator Thermostats out of Range



  • Hi @pete,
    I don't think that the current Extension Kit has the hardware already installed to achieve this......so it would probably require a "new build" device.
  • Just had to comment on this thread because a fair bit of misinformation on the antennas.

    The Inverted F antenna that is being modded in this thread is not in use.

    It is certainly a 2.4ghz antenna and not for 868mhz, in the pictures by wandal and solbadguy2010 it is obvious that the 2.4ghz is not being used - the supporting components nearby are unpopulated - in fact on that modded board the modded antenna is not even connected to anything.

    The helix antenna at the end of the board is the correct one that is being used.

    here is the datasheet for the 868mhz antenna


    here is the datasheet for a potentially better design


    it also could be possible to increase the output power of the chip itself - the radio chip uses SPI for setting the output power https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/cc110l.pdf?ts=1654777792616

    Either way, it's all great upgrading the bridge antenna but it could equally be problems with the device antennas

    I don't think these devices can/will ever "mesh", but being able to add another bridge should be a relativly easy software "fix" if tado really wanted to sort this.

    This version that was posted by solbadguy2010 (which does have chips to support the 2.4ghz antenna) and has a sort-of-UFL connector (see https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/88041/what-connector-is-similar-to-u-fl-but-has-no-pin)



    Anyway, if you buy a 50ohm 868mhz antenna and adapter such as these and then you will need to modify the PCB slightly to use the external antenna and that should work a lot better than the built-in antenna



  • repeater needed…. Or multiple bridges on the same account… or multiple houses/nickname without logout…. And please make the bridge able to connect to the router through WiFi (not only via Lan).

  • Same problem here - terrible signal, whatever the position of the internet bridge: many tado SRTs complete out of range; a number intermittently in range; some in range. Battery life correspondingly terrible (under 4-6 months), I assume as the SRTs are desperately trying to connect to the bridge.

    This is in a largish (c. 300m2), L shaped single story home - most of the internal walls being partition rather than masonry. Wifi coverage throughout.

    The irony is that tado is a system particularly desirable in larger properties, and yet the range limitation prohibits that.

    As evidenced by this thread, this has been drawn to tado's attention since at least 2017 by multiple users, yet no signs of a fix (many ways this could be implemented, but they seem to have no will ...).

    Looks like I'll have to jump ship, having invested c. £2k in the system, further ££ on heating engineers (as frustrated with it as I am!) and countless hours dealing with "support".

    Assuming there isn't another solution (e.g. third party repeater - I've not turned up anything so far which is sure to work with their protocols), does anyone else offer a similar product, but with acceptable/extendable range (e.g. using mesh or repeaters)?

  • @Danobo Unbelievable that after 5 years the company has completely ignored this fundamental and frankly embarrassing flaw in the product!

  • robjampar - You mention PCB modification. I'm not sure what's required, but I'm pretty sure that modifying the internet bridge myself with a larger antenna is beyond me. However, I'd be up for trying it if I could find someone willing to do it ... presumably it's worth a shot!

    Any thoughts on who to go to for this?

    The other suggestion has been some kind of signal booster/repeater - I don't know how feasible that is, as even if it a IPv6 enabled “6LoWPAN”, is there a chance it might be using some kind of bespoke protocol which a repeater would need to be primed for?

    Any other solutions welcome. I'm toying with a second bridge, etc, which could operate a second central heating (CH) zone (on a separate valve). The problem then is presumably (I think) you'd need two separate phones ... (?) so each person who operates the geo-fencing would need to to have two phones with when leaving the house, which isn't a practical solution. My other option is to install a spare Nest system for CH zone 2 (which is where most of the reception issue are), and either abandon SRVs in those zones entirely (suboptimal), or use ones other than tado that can speak to Nest ...

    Thoughts welcome ... !

  • johnnyp78
    johnnyp78 ✭✭✭
    As far as I know nest doesn’t do trvs, nor are any directly compatible. You could try going the weather compensation route and abandoning trvs altogether.
  • Nutty
    edited October 3

    Looking at a Tado circuit boards teardowns online the thermostat has a bluetooth chip and 2.4ghz antenna which is probably connected in some way to the unused 2.4ghz antenna in the V3 bridge. So as @robjampar stated soldering a cable on that antenna will do nothing. I have a thermostat in a garden room 15m from the house so no chance in working. I am familiar with surface mount soldering so I am going to attempt to mod the helix antenna with a rp sma connector to an external antenna. I would like to put a question to @robjampar if he can shed any light on if the connection to the original PCB antenna should be broken or can an external antenna be added in parallel.

  • I just spent a significant amount on Tado, including 14 TRVs. 4 of them, at opposite sides of the house don't have a stable connection, or none at all. Reading this thread doesn't give me much hope. Is there a place where we can 'vote' to push this topic higher on the priority list at Tado?

  • I bought these last year and have 2 of 11 TRVs out of range. Now that it's winter again and checking to see if the problem is resolved and still nothing. I think it's quite easy for the company to ignore us on their community message board so I'm going to @ them on Twitter and suggest you all do the same.


  • @Nutty you would need to disconnect the original PCB antenna.

    if you just remove the existing "sort of UFL" connector and replace it with an actual UFL connector I believe that the PCB antenna will get disconnected as the "sort of UFL" connector is being used to pass through the signal.

  • Following up on the post from @robjampar, I believe I was able to locate the specific parts used on my bridge PCB:

    The connector appears to be a "Microwave Coaxial Connectors with Switch SWF Type", possibly made by Murata with piece number MM8130-2600: https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Murata-Electronics/MM8130-2600?

    After some more research I managed to find this probe (cable): "Measurement Probe for MM8130-2600/MM8430-2610 (P/N: MXHS83QE3000)": https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/81-MXHS83QE3000

    I also picked an (appropriate?) antenna: https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-216196-0001

    After having those two parts shipped from the US, I connected them up to my Tado bridge - which seemed to have worked fine, mechanically at least:

    However, after some initial excitement, it turned out that this doesn't help at all. The reception was even notably worse with the probe and antenna connected than without...

    Any insights/more ideas from electronics experts?