Radiator valve closed while calling for heating request with 1 wave
Smart Radiator Thermostat keep my boiler constantly running in attempt to heat the room, but they keep my radiator valve closed.
This means the radiator is cold, while the boiler is running for nothing, and wasting gas. Due to this behaviour my gas consumption jumped 30% than before i installed Tado.
Support keeps pointing me to testing of "faulty" SRVs, instead of opening a bug ticket for the developers.
It's not possible that all 6 of my valves are encountering the same issue.
Heating with 2 and 3 waves heat request works perfectly fine, because the valve then opens.
Expected behaviour for me would be when heating with 1 wave, open the valve partially at least.
Comments
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Just to be clear, are you saying this is a fairly new installation and that you have proved for ALL your valves that they are closed when the boiler is firing solely for each one?
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I have the installation for 2 months now, and started noticed the boiler was constantly running, once i saw my consumtpion went up. When i checked Tado, highest heating call was 1 wave at the moment. Then i started inspecting and noticed this happens for all rooms.
Also rumbling noises started to happen from the radiators/pipes, because all radiators are shut by Tado, and the boiler + pump are called to work, which caused flow issues.
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So to be absolutely clear, you have proved for all your valves that, when calling for heat albeit on the margins and showing 1 flame, each is actually closed but the boiler is firing!
Not sure what our experts here might say but I suspect tado are right and you have a bad batch of valves!
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My final test Yesteday was with one off the valves, while it was requiring 1 flame heat and the radiator was cold (boiler running), i took off the Tado radiator head, and set it to OFF temperature.
Expected behaviour would be for the Tado head pin to close completely (extract as far as possible) since it was requiring heat and switched to off afterwards, but it stayed in place, which means it was in off position already.
Afterwards i set the heating to max to get 2-3 flames, and the pin on the head contracted completely which is fine, because this means that the radiator flow is open now.
Also, I'm not the first with this issue: https://community.tado.com/en-gb/discussion/15405/radiator-valve-closed-while-calling-for-heat
Also support recalibrated all of my valves before this, thus it's not a calibration issue
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Also here you can see the temperature is dropping within the 1 flame heating areas, and only starts to rise after 2 flame heating areas. This shows the radiators were not heating at those times, but the boiler is running for both 1 and 2 flames heating requests, which means it was running almost the whole night, instead of just the 5 two flames areas that were enough to keep the room warm.
This is a pure waist of money.
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Curiously I have noticed the opposite, a valve will call for heat at the 1 flame setting, I hear the valve open slightly, but the boiler does not fire . . .
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This would be expected behaviour, open the radiator in case the boiler is still running or just circulating warm water from another devices heat request, but don't start the boiler by yourself since the temperature is not low enough in the room.
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Hi.
I have the exact same problem!
When I have a room with only 1 flame the boiler is running but the radiator is cold.
Also if I have a radiator heating with 2-3 flames, it will get hot. Then if a radiator (on the same pipe line from the boiler) begins to heat with 1 flame the radiator stays cold. Very annoying.1 -
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simmilar problem here, thermostate asks for heat and fires the boiler but frequently fails to close its internal relay to open the under floor heating valve.
other rooms have the same issue, when asking for heat the boiler fires up but the "smart"radiator valves remain closed. same issue in all rooms. just when the temp drops further the valves will open alowing the radiator and floor heating to warm up.
the same issue appears when the room is near setpoint. valves close but the boiler is still fired resulting in waiting energy just to heat the bypass circuit.having a discussion with tado about the issue but they keep coming back with answers to problems I don't have.
to prevent the boiler from canstand running I have removed the zone controller from all rooms but the livingroom so now only the living room can cause me this issue so the frequency of just heating the bypass curcuit is a lot lower.
unfortunately concept of having zone controll per room for which I purchased Tado is lost due to this config
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Same for me, in Opentherm configuration.
When one or more valves request low percentage of the full power (1 wave), the valves seem closed (cold radiator and no flow noise). But the boiler is running to heat nothing.
In my opinion is not so useful to regulate the amount of valve disclosure, when there is in place the modulation of the boiler water temperature.
When the valve needs heat should be fully opened and closed only if the temperature is reached. When the valve need only low power water heat temperature modulation could be sufficient
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I have the same problem though I don’t see a solution here? Have you found something to fix it?
My situation is as followed:
In my living room I have a smart thermostat and one smart radiator thermostat.
For example set temp is 19,5 degrees, temp drops to 19,1 tado app shows calling for heat by one wave but the radiator stays closed and cold and thus the room is not heated.
This is very frustrating and seems the have started after installation of a new CV.0 -
My solution is to have only one radiator SRV allowed to call for heat and fire the boiler. This valve is fitted loosely and not locked into place. Therefore it can never close the valve. It is a bypass radiator, always open. It is in the coldest room of the house that must be heated adequately. There is actually one more bypass radiator, without TRV/SRT at all,
All the other radiators are set to independent and cannot make the boiler fire. Thus the temperature settings for these radiators are max temperature limits instead of temperature targets. With this setup, if the coldest room in the house is warm enough then the other rooms will be warm enough too.
Operating the system in this way is efficient, with many radiators ready for heat when the "master radiator" fires the boiler and thus keeping return temps lower and improving condensing performance of the boiler. It is much better than having the individual radiator demands out of sync and taking it in turns to each keep turning the boiler on and off.
The standard Tado operation, with all radiators allowed to turn on the boiler, without necessarily opening the valves, is hopeless. And this one wave, two waves, three waves thing is just silly. I run my system with relay switching, so there can only be two states - on (with valve open and boiler running) or off.
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Hi,
I see that I am not the only one who is solving this problem. I have radiator valves of the Giacomini brand 1/2"x16, R432X033, and it happens that even after replacing the insert with a new one, which I also lubricated with my finger to make sure everything works, the radiator does not start to heat up easily even when the heating is turned on at 1 wave on the head. These valves are everywhere in the house, with the only difference being that in some places there are 15mm pipes and where I notice that it does not work, there are 12mm pipes / distributions, so I guess there is a problem with the flow and pressure. Could someone tell me if it would help if I replaced these valves with maybe Danfoss or Heimeier? The easiest thing would be if support could modify the firmware on selected heads only so that the motor opens for 1 wave a little more. I think that would help a lot of people here.
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@Lukas93 get in touch with tado support and tell them the issue. Get them to put you through to second line support, as they have the ability to change the minimum opening percentage of the V3+ valves (assuming that's what you have). They may be able to do similar for the Tado X valves too.
I did this two years ago, by sending them screenshots of the graphs showing low level heat requests and the temperature in the room continuing to drop. First line support didn't do much, and might imply they can't do anything, but if you persist they'll pass you through to second line support who can send a configuration update to your devices to alter how much they open.
Mine have been fine ever since.
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