Installation help
I’ve now tried to install it several time with no joy. My system is using a British Gas UP2 control unit alongside a Drayton digistat SCR and portable thermostat.
I originally replaced the UP2 with the tado extension, but found the SCR caused a block and stopped it from calling for heating.
I then replaced the SCR and refitted the UP2. Followed instructions as per tado (relocating one wire) and turning the UP2 unit to ‘on’. Now the tado can call for heating, but does not turn off!
I then tried removing both the SCR and UP2 and just mounting the Tado Extension in both positions, and neither of them can call for heating.
I’m now stuck for what to do next!?!
Comments
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I don’t know how to upload photos, but it probably helps to say that I have junction box as well, sitting between the UP2 and SCR, which seems to power both. So I’m kinda assuming I may need to tap into that instead (or, a professional needs to do so?).0
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You can upload on a PC, rather than mobile.
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Right, so this is the original set-up
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Beneath the covers (spaghetti junction!)
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Shouldn’t need to touch the wiring centre (middle). Extension kit replaces the BG branded programmer. I presume you have a wireless Tado stat.
Wireless part (right) just needs bridging out.
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I have the extension and two thermostats I brought from the last house (v3).
When you say bridging out what do you mean?0 -
Have a look at the documentation
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Thanks for sharing. Apologies but, I'm a fairly competent DIY'er, but not sure I fully grasp the wiring diagram (sorry!). I was just reading about bridging on other pages and posts though. I assume this is so the central heating is 'perminantly on', or closes the switched loop to allow the tado to do it's thing? I'm just not sure which wires I would need to connect, and what do I do with the remaining wires.
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You’ll understand that mixing a lack of understanding and electrics can end badly.
That said, let’s focus on the thermostat. It’s wired in series in the heating demand, which I’m assuming is switched live (SL) for your boiler. There are 5 wires, L, N and E, which you don’t care about and then SL in and out to call for heat. If you leave those apart, Tado cannot fire the boiler.
The Tado method involves doing the minimum as they are encouraging people that aren’t competent to take on wiring tasks. It’s not difficult, but you need to get your head around what the wires are doing.
The proper job would be to take the 5 core wire out completely, but an understanding of the spaghetti junction box is needed. Again, this is doable. There are numerous N and E, which just connect together respectively, some permanent L that go together and then the switched lives that do the magic.0 -
Brilliant thank you. I did purchase some WAGO connectors last night as after a lot of reading, kind of established that I needed to link the two wires (as you mention) but also wanted to safely cover the remaining wires.
Probably not the best think to do, but I was asking ChatGPT about what to do, and it suggested complete removal of the wire, then replacing the NO from the tado to where the SCR was wired. I didn’t quite grasp this part because obviously I’m removing a wire (and replacing), so surely I’m breaking a loop to make another this way?0 -
Safely dealing with the unwanted wires could be as simple as the old fashioned wire connector, a chocbox. Then just pop that in a simple enclosure. Otherwise a couple of Wago connectors, but definitely don’t stick a pair of them in 1 Wago!
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No, I was going to use a wago to bridge the two wires, and then individual wagos for the remaining wires, all inside a plastic enclosure.
I’ll give it a go either tonight or tomorrow and update the post to share how it all went. Many thanks for your help to this point, I’m very grateful for your time and efforts0 -
Sounds like a plan. I do like Wagos. I think it’s best to stick to those.
They do a great wiring centre for the central heating.
I’m sure you’ll be fine.
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An update as promised. Only just got around to doing this.
Bridged the two wires and then capped the others individually using wagos, put it all into a wago box. All working as expected so far.
Not quite as straight forward as hoped. Initially it didn’t work, as I kept the L, N and earth on the backplate. I then removed them and it seemed to work. I also noted an initial delay in switching off, so maybe that was the main issue all along.
Regardless, it appears to be working now. If I have any other issues I’ll be sure to return.1
